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There are quite a few developments going on in the catfancy. No one who is even slightly active in the catfancy can have failed to notice is. If these developments continue, most will be aimed at improving the wellbeing of our beloved Felis Silvestris Catus, or in plain language, "the cat". Despite all those good resolutions, I'm worried about that so beloved cat. More and more often I hear "I'm going to buy a stud for my girl". Often those are new breeders, or people who think you can make some money with a stud. This sort of adventure usually ends in less wellbeing of the cat, and of the stud in particular. More often than not he is seen as a kitten productionmachine and in the worst case scenario he spends his life in an old drafty shed, or in a cage in an attic.
Keeping a stud requires aforethought. It is a calling where knowledge of the cat in general is of the essence. A stud is the most important animal in your cattery. During his life he will be able to produce more kittens than any other female. A stud in training grows up in the owners house and often considers himself part of the family. He enjoys it when his owner pets him and compliments him. He knows his owner through and through, and the owner knows him. A future stud is guided bit bit into his new surroundings. Every day he stays in the studquarters a little longer, together with the owner, until he is completely comfortable. On his first workday, his owner helps him with his first female. Speak to him, gently, and guide him to his first breeding. Only in this way will he accept his new future in the studquarters and retain his trust in his owner forever. On the other hand, a stud that is taken from his familiar environment at a young age and placed in studquarters will protest, become frustrated and feel betrayed. In the worst case he could become unreliabl and aggressive. The first to notice will be his owner, whom he cannot trust anymore. Quickly enough, this sweet, playfull cat will have become a distant and bitter stud, feared by owner, stewards and judges.
If after this introduction you still intend to obtain a stud, and if you are willing to spend many hours with your boy in thoroughly sprayed studquarters, then read on!
Daily worries
When you have decided to become a stud-owner, it can be useful to ask another studowner to spend a day in the cattery, or just to come around and talk about how to manage a cattery. I'm sure that most stud owners will be hapy to teach you anything you want to know about cattery management.
An important rule for stud and owner is security. Security and continuity give the stud a feeling of protection and wellbeing. It is his owner that cares for him and gives him attention that he needs at set times. My boys know the sound of my car. They know I will always come to them first before entering the house. Clean the quarters, litterbox and fooddishes at set times during the day, and then follow this with a play and cuddle session. Visitors are always loudly invited to come in and see the boys. They really appreciate it if you drop by and see them too. It is important that a cat should never become wary of people. Unless you want a frustrated and unhappy stud, he should regularly have a female for breeding. If there is no female for him for a long time, you can give him a spayed female for company. It is paramount that you should never confine a stud alone. As stud owner you should have enough females yourself to keep him happy. Only when a stud has proven himself is it necessary to advertise to get enough females for him. He must be shown often to be seen. I would like to remark that it is a shame that owners of females often only chose males that at a certain time are Best in Show. It is generally known that good looking males do not per definition produce good looking kittens. On the contrary: it takes two to tango! Shows are moments that can be influenced by all kinds of agreeable or non-agreeable things. The best cats are not per definition on the stage!
To be a good stud owner you should not only know the pro's and contra's of your own girls, but you should be able to recognise these in other lines. When you buy a stud you should also know the behaviour, moods and reactions of the breeder of your future stud. All too often it happens that after a kitten is sold, breeders are at each other because a kitten did not live up to expectations, or some such matter. On the other hand, longlasting friendly relations may also arise.
Then there is the question of buying a grown stud or a kitten. I think that is to each his own. Personally I prefer to have my boys from kitten onwards, so that I can build a strong relationship with them. An older cat is fully formed in his character and will miss the owner that raised him. He will never become really close to you. On the other hand, you know what you're buying. When buying a kitten there is always a certain risk. The development of the kitten could be different to what you or the breeder counted on. Knowledge of lines and their development is important here, but not always totally reliable.
Buying a stud
What stud to buy? That is not as simple as it seems. There is plenty of choice because we do not need a lot of males to keep the breed going. I would think it wrong if a stud is bought because of the simple fact that his sire or dam is a champion. It is better to study the pedigrees to see which lines can eliminated the faults in your own. You buy a stud for yourself first! Knowledge of the standard, bloodlines and the cats on the kitten's pedigrees is absolutely necessary. As I said earlier, good x good is not per definition good, but has a lot to do with the breeding methods used and the amount of inbreeding of both cats. Cats with a high inbreeding coefficient generally speaking breed more predictably than cats that have outcross pedigrees. That is because genes from the same line are mixed together and this assures the line is more homogenous. This breeding method means cats start being alike both genotypically and phenotypically more and more, since they all have the same genepool. This doesn't mean you should go out and buy a brother-sister combination! Everything has limits. If you don't have enough knowledge on the various breeding techniques, then an outcross mating is still the safest. Health and character of your future stud is of paramount importance. Read the list of defects that are present in the breed, but are undesirable. It is often said that the male's disposition determines that of the kittens. I don't share this opinion, but I feel it is extremely important that cats, and studs especially, should have a good disposition, not just for you, but also for the reputation of the breed! Often enough one can hear people, usually laymen, saying Siamese are unreliable and vicious. Therefore it is very important that you get your male from a breeder that is honest and reputable and produces winners with his lines. I should add that these characteristics do not always go together! Is is important that you make sure as far as you can, that your stud's lines have no regularly appearing life threatening defects. Never buy a stud from a litter that wasn't perfect, no matter how beautiful the cat. Before you know it, an entire population can carry a genetic defect, and you as stud owner would be responsible. Every breed has a defect that appears more or less regularly. Thorough scientific research into genetic defects in cats has not been done and I'm afraid that will probably not take place for some time, because of the limited commercial interests. So what is a defect? The breed we breed? We shouldn't overdo it. Sometimes I feel some people are only breeding defects! Nobody tells me what defect occurs in what lines, with what frequency. Some associations feel that they can even regulate those occurences that have not even been established to be hereditary. Some years ago I've already said that this is a noble goal, but the way they are trying to achieve it is totally useless. The rules cannot be enforced and will be broken simply because most breeders, even members of the boards, do not have the knowledge on these defects that they need. Breeders that do have that knowledge, or claim to have it, will not abide by the rules and simply change association. No one can stop them. Meetings between the various associations usually turns into disagreement, so that making binding agreements usually comes to nothing. And what does the do association that is all for the wellfare of the cat, but has no members left to follow through with that policy? Information and education are the only instruments to regulate matters. Years ago I proposed that all breeders should get a qualification. This seems to have been prophetic, since new rules and regulations will possibly make it mandatory to obtain a qualification. Untill then, unfortunately we will have to make do with rumours, gossip and jealosy, and with what a wellmeaning breeder is willing to teach a beginner.
As far as defects go, it is the stud owners duty to remove a male from breeding that regularly throws defects in any shape or form. Beginners would do well to consult experienced breeders and judges. You can also always go to your association's breedclub. Make sure the kitten tested negative for FeLV and FIV shortly before the sale.
Studquarters
Do not make the classic mistake. A stud cannot be kept in a backroom in the house! I have visited catteries where the stud was allowed to roam free in the house, because they did not spray. Despite the fact that the smell was enough to floor a grown man, I wondered why the wallpaper was yellow and the wooden doors twice their size. Unfortunately, it has occurred that owners had to be evicted because the situation was no longer tolerable. Studquarters are a necessity and that means a big hole in your wallet! Studquarters should preferably be located separated, but in view of, the house. The stud can then keep eyecontact with its owner as he gets on with his daily duties. Furthermore the owner can check up on the cat more easily, which is handy if a female is visiting. The quarters should preferably be made of stone and draft-free and waterproof. They should have enough windows for daylight and for the stud to look out if the weather is cold or bad. There should be at least 6 m2 floorspace and 2 m standing height. It should have enough space for a chair, sleeping spaces and fleeing spots, or preferable a freestanding cattree to give the stud the opportunity to flee after breeding a female. I have given my studs a raised plastic box, with a heated plastic basket on top. That way they are off the floor and the draft can't get to them. And the blankets can be changed regularly when the stud has peed in his basked once again. It is also ideal for a visiting female. Infections stand little chance. Of course the quarters are insulated and heated to roomtemperature. Remember a thermostat and other installation- and building-regulations, as well as the energy companies rules! The quarters should also have a separate area where a visiting female can get used to the situation. Hot and cold water in the washing area is a must with a view to hygiene. A radio will give your stud the necessary distraction if you're not around. The quarters should be easy to clean, for instance tiles on walls and floor. The floor should have a drain. You should put throwrugs on the floor. My studs will breed a female anywher, but on the floor only when there are throwrugs. Hygiene is extremely important in a cattery and especially in the studquarters. That is where strange cats regularly come, with all the risks that entails. As studowner you willingly take risks which can be kept to a minimum by practising good hygiene. Therefore daily cleaning and thorough scrubbing down weekly is absolutely necessary. Then you can desinfect. I always use natrium hypochlorid (or bleach), because it is still the best and cheapest desinfectant. Remember to rinse well! The stud should have an outside run with gras, hard surfaces and climbing opportunities to keep him happy! An outside run can never be big enough, but 3 x 2 m is the absolute minimum. If we remember that a stud sometimes spends all of his life in studquarters, well thought out quarters are the least we can do for him!
The happening
It is preferable to have a young stud experience his first breeding with an experienced female. Preferably one he knows, but that is not absolutely necessary. The experienced female knows what should happen and will make it as easy as possible on the aspiring young stud. Often young males are excited and impulsive. If you are not ready to step in, then he could come out harmed if he tries to breed a female that is not yet totally willing. That is why it is so important to have an area where the female can get used to the studquarters. If necessary, I give the female several hours separately, so that she can get used to the surroundings without immediately being pesterd by a horny male. Only when the male has gained some experience, will it be possible for him to handle the more troublesome females. It is my opinion that the owner should be around when the stud breeds the female for the first time. First of all because you can't go around cashing in the studfee if you can't even be sure the female was bred, and secondly because females can be scared and therefore aggressive to the stud and sometimes even to you. The studowner will have to comfort the female and try to get her settled. It will also make it possible to interrupt if it isn't exactly love at first sight. Only if a stud is more experienced can you then let him do his job on his own. Sometimes it is a joy to see how resourceful a stud can be with a hard to approach female. Sometimes you will need to give a hand. There are females that are hard to breed, they press their behind to the ground, stick their tails between their legs and other such unfortunate positions. In cases like that, you will have to give the stud a hand and manouvre the female into a more breedable position. And then it all stands and falls with the trust your stud has in you. Never let a visiting female in with your other cats. Each cattery has its own beasties, so to speak. If you have a female in for breeding, you should check her for fleas, current FeLV and FIV test, current innoculations. Check her ears, eyes (third eyelid) and mouth, but also if the nails are clipped. A female should be in top condition before she is bred. If a female is not in top condition, nothing can be expected of her. Now I know the following is controversial, but I am of the opinion that a FIP test can be usueful. Although a high titer is no indication of this feared disease, it does mean that a cat is fighting an infection. And then you could question the wisdom of breeding a female when she is fighting an infection.
Owners of females should ask the studwoner to see the male's tests before giving the female for breeding. Both parties should be sure that all conditions have been fulfilled, not also their own, but also their associations. This will avoid later disappointments.
As stud owner you are the judge of the female's general condition. Some females go back into heat the minute they arrive, others wait a few hours or even a few days before they allow the male to approach them. Whatever happens, you should ensure that the female eats and drinks well. You must keep a record of the breedings with the date, name of female and owner, etc. I use a computerprogramme that keeps all records. I also give the owner of the female a studcontract that lists exactly what conditions and services to expect for their studfee. I also enter the first date of breeding and the date the litter is due. Unfortunately this is still not standard or mandatory, but I can advise anyone to use it. A studowner should also have enough knowledge of genetics to be able to advise the owner of the female with regard to the lines and colours. Admittedly this is a lot of work, but for the continuity of the breed it is strictly necessary! When the kittens are born, you would do well to check on them at 10-12 weeks. This way you get to know the stud's line well and this will be of value in your advice to other breeders. Many owners of females appreciate it when you show interest in their kittens. This way you keep up social contacts and have the possibility of inspiring people to continue. This will then advance your breed's popularity!
Retiring
As studowner I'm often asked how long a stud can remain a stud. This question is not easy to answer. It depends on the stud's character. Does he have enough breedings to keep him happy? On the other hand, has he not bred enough? Some studs have been used for so many times that they can be found on each and every pedigree. Is that good for a breed? I know that some studs breed untill they drop dead, so to speak. In the UK there are 13-15 year old studs still active. I am of the opinion that public studs should not breed for too long. An owner that knows what he is talking about and cares for the breed he is working with, will be very selective with breedings and is generally speaking capable of deciding when to neuter. But what to do with an ex-stud? First of all, studs have the right to good retirement benefits! A breeder should always try to keep a retired stud, you owe it to the boy. I can understand theree are situations where this is hard, or even impossible. Still, it should never be that retired studs are disposed of like a pair of old shoes! There are various ways to potty train a retired stud. Some never learn, others adapt easily. It all has to do with the group he comes into, and how he handles himself as ex-macho! And if you really want to own a stud and share part of your life with him, and if this boy has given you kittens, then can you really, really fault him for having an accident now and again?
I hope you know what you're getting into. I respect the stud owner. Without them no kittens, no shows etc. Being a studowner is not always fun. Often enough the gossip and rumours and jealousy are enough to give up and that is a shame. Already the choice in studs in some breeds is limited. Making money off breedings is impossible. People that say that don't know what they're talking about and those of us that keep cashbooks will know that that is true. Studs require en anormous investment of yourself, and of your wallet. If you can't afford it, don't do it, it is cheaper to get outside studservice. And you won't be dependent on your own stud, your choices will be much wider. As studowner you often have to chose between using your own or going to another stud. And then maybe the male hasn't had a breeding in quite some time, so you decide to use your own male again. That is not breeding, that is producing. Still there is nothing agianst repeating a combination, especially if it is successful. If the litters produced are top quality, why not? Often people want kittens from proven combinations. Studowners are responsible for the continuity of the breed they breed.
Should, after reading this article, you still want to become a studowner, I'm sure you will succeed. And then I hope that you will enjoy it keeping and loving studs as much as I do!
Recommended reading: Genetics for catbreeders van Roy Robinson 3e editie. Pergamon Press.ISBN 0 08 037506 5
If you like to more about the Siamese you are welcome on our Web-site
Thanks to Corinne Judkind for the translation
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When you sell kittens, you are vulnerable. You are involving yourself in the basics of psychology when interviewing a potential buyer. But you cannot keep all kittens yourself. You have had a lot of fun with the kittens, but after twelve to thirteen weeks, the time has come to share this pleasure with the new owner. Before this time you have of course made all necessary arrangements: you have the pedigree, you have wormed and vaccinated your kittens against Panleucopenia and Rhino/Calici. Depending on your vet he will advise you to repeat the first vaccination after three weeks, so that your kittens are protected fully. You then have your kittens vaccinated after eight weeks, and again after 11 weeks. After vaccination you keep the kitten for a minimum of a week. Sometimes kittens develop a reaction to the vaccination, eat less and lose some weight. This is nothing to worry about, but it is better to have this happen at your home than at the new owner's home. Letting go of kittens is an emotional affair. They have become a part of you. It is not always easy to find good homes for your kittens, but as a breeder you are obliged to find a good home for them. Therefore you are entitled to ask critical questions of a buyer. Do not hesitate to say no when you are in doubt. If a kitten does not have a good home, or if you feel that the kitten is not properly looked after, then you will always regret it. And retrieving a kitten once it is sold can be very difficult.
Once you have bred a litter of pedigreed kittens, the question arises: "What do I do with four or more kittens?". There is plenty of information available to the potential buyer. Associations and breedclubs generally speaking give adequate information. When a potential buyer decides on a breed, s/he usually ends up at a breedclub. There he cannot only find information on the breed, but also addresses of the breeders belonging to the breedclub. So cat-associations generally speaking do their work well. But do we ever spare a thought for the breeder who has to let go of his carefully and lovingly raised kittens to a buyer that he hardly knows
We never really stopped to think about this, because we never ran into problems. If people presented themselves as potential buyers, and we didn't like them during the first conversation, we simply didn't sell them a kitten. We have our own rules with regard to housing, more cats in the house etc. These rules would have to be met by potential buyers. Because the editor of Siobaja asked us to write this article, we were forced to stop and think.
The majority of kittens bred spend the rest of their lives at home on the couch with someone. Only a handful is used to continue the breed. Breeders usually know how to introduce a new cat into their group. Problems usually arise with new owners that are not as well versed with regard to welcoming a new companion into their homes.
In contrast to the larger countries around us, breeders in The Netherlands are in a comfortable position. Our country is so small that it is possible to meet every potential new owner in person. Thankfully we do not have to send kittens per mail order across the world, without knowing the new owner and being aware of the conditions our kitten will end up in.
Thankfully, as far as I am aware, our country does not have commercial Siamese breeders. Simply because the prices that are being paid for kittens are low. In other countries this may be different, because pricing is much more interesting there. In the US, for instance, this is totally different. There it is quite common for kittens to be ordered over the telephone or by letter. Due to the enormous distances, this is hardly surprising. Breeders in the US have "professionalised". Prices there may reach three to four times a monthly salary. And apparently these prices are paid! Breeders that obtain a kitten this way often do not even know how the sire and dam look. It is my opinion that this way of doing business is not right and will only attract the wrong element. A short while ago I heard about an American Persian that was given Best in Show at one of the European FIFE shows, simply because it had cost US$ 30,000. As I understand it, it wasn't even an outstanding cat.
Obviously the judges simply didn't have the nerve. You should ask yourself if this is the kind of breeder you would like to obtain a kitten from, or even sell to. If the dam has proven itself in a certain combination, she will not be spared. That dam could be your kitten! She will only be a part of a cat-copying company. You can guess at the circumstances under which the kittens will be raised in such a cattery. These breeders couldn't care less where their kittens end up, as long as they can sell.
In the countries around us, prices of ¦ 1000 to 1500 are normal for an average kitten. Sometimes they are higher if the parents of the kitten have proven themselves. In our country the prices are around ¦ 550 to 600. If you are selling abroad, it is wise to ask a lot more, to avoid buyers obtaining cheap kittens from you to sell to others for higher prices.
Regularly I see people offer their kittens as goods as a show. I see nothing wrong with the indication "for sale" in the catalogue. But some breeders, perhaps unconsciously, display them on top of the cage, so that a lot of people can see and touch them, from cat to cat to cat etc. These people don't know what can befall them, or what they are spared! They mention champion parents, which can deceive potential buyers. They might think the kitten will grow up to be a winner. But what if it isn't? There are even those who will travel abroad to sell their kittens, to hand them over in a cardboard box at the end of the show, totally stressed, without knowing anything about the home this sweet kitten will end up in. Why do these people breed in the first place?
The honest and upright breeder will, during the first telephone conversation, ask what the new owner is planning to do with the kitten. Does he want to show, breed, or just have a pet. Then he will ask if there are other cats in the house, and if not, explain why a Siamese cannot be kept alone. He will ask the potential buyer why a Siamese. I am of the opinion that the character of man and Siamese should match. It is an exchange between human and cat.
What more can a breeder want than to still hear after a couple of years that it is such a beautiful, sweet boy. This makes a breeder proud and fulfils you in the knowledge that you have made the right decision with your breeding lines and in choosing the buyer.
Choosing a kittenSome potential buyers make a day of it. Father, mother, children and sometimes grandmother come to visit. Coffee, cakes, nice and warm and a day out at the cattery. Just like a visit to the zoo, except it is free! Breeder beware! Often you are not the only one being visited that day. Infections carried from one cattery to another are no exception. The least you can ask is to wash hands and perhaps leave shoes outside. Potential buyers that do not understand this should be left on the doorstep.
For the potential buyer there is a golden rule. Whatever you want to do with the kitten, choose the one you like best!It is nonsense to think that the kitten that approaches you is the kitten that has picked you. Of course the kitten would rather stay where it has grown up, with its mother, brothers and sisters. A kitten doesn't really want to leave! Well socialised kittens will always approach strangers. Kittens are curious, eager to learn and adventurous. The new owner will have to have the patience to win the trust of the kitten. You shouldn't sell a kitten to someone who doesn't have any other (Siamese) cats. In contrast to what most lay people think, the Siamese is a highly socialised creature that enjoys the company of others of its kind. A Siamese does not like to be alone!
In the dog world it is quite usual for the breeder to decide what puppy best fits what owner. I see no good reason why this shouldn't be the case with cats. Who but the breeder knows the kitten's character best? Of course there may be a preference for a certain colour, but as I said, the character of man and cat should match. In the cat world it is usual for the future owner to choose a kitten guided by intuition. As breeder you can guide, tell them about the kitten and why you think this would be a good kitten. If it is a breeder, or someone who wants to show and breed, it is different. A breeder is often looking for a new bloodline, or a line of which he thinks it will match his own. He knows the breed and the standard and will usually want the best kitten, if you'll allow him of course. If a future owner wants to show the kitten, he should be made aware of the procedures and of the qualifications the kitten can reach. It is impossible to sell a kitten with the guarantee that it will be a champion effortlessly. The most you can have is expectations.
What is the best age for kittens to go to their new home?Let me start by saying that there is no special age at which your kittens can leave home, but there is a minimum age. It is nonsense to think that older kittens will not get used to their new owners. Nothing is as adaptable as a cat. If you invest a little time, an older cat will also make a fine companion. Some associations have set the rule that a kitten can't be sold before 12 weeks. Other associations have no rules at all. It is my opinion that this could very well vary per breed. Speaking for the Siamese, 12 to 14 weeks is usually a good age for the kittens to leave. They will have reached a weight of about 1.2 to 1.5 kilograms. In our opinion this is the absolute minimum weight a kitten should have before it is allowed to leave. If a kitten does not measure up to this, it will stay longer. We have regularly been approached by potential buyers that wanted the kitten at six weeks. Then it would have plenty of opportunity to get used to the now owner. Six weeks! But the kitten could eat and walk independently? It was litter trained? But just compare this to a human toddler of around three, it is on solids and can walk. Still, there is not a mother on earth that would even think about exposing the toddler to the dangers of a new home. For the Feline mother, the same principles goes. She would never leave six week old kittens to their own devices! But man is foolish and above all egotistical. They don't think about the kitten that is suddenly wrenched from its home, way from the protection of mother, away from the brothers and sisters, the running and playing with Feline friends that lick their ears and help them grooming their coats. Away from all those well known scents, hiding places and caretakers. Suddenly it is scared an alone in an unknown environment, desperately looking for hiding places under cupboards or settees, but groping human hands hunt it. Put it in a basket in the middle of a room where it can't hide. Give it food and drink it doesn't want. Then there are children that follow it around. And to top it all off there's the other pet! Whether it's a dog or a cat, it will want to thoroughly examine the new kitten, whilst the new kitten isn't even at home yet in this new and dangerous new world. The hairs on its back rise and it starts to spit. It may even swat at the new owner. And then of course, the kitten is bad-tempered! The new owner not realising that it is he who has acted incorrectly. People who want to have six week old kittens in the house should take the responsibility to breed a litter themselves!
The other wayYou have met and have got to know the potential buyer. You have told him everything about the Siamese, what to do and especially what not to do. I do not sell to people who let their cats go outside. You should try to get the new owner to understand that an outside run is a godsend. This is a bit simpler if you have one yourself. It doesn't have to be a castle, just a simple run of 2mx2m with chickenwire en some grass is enough. Some cat owners put all their talents into building a run. You can see the most beautiful buildings that harmonise with the garden.
If you and the new owner have completed this first talk satisfactorily, you have to decide whether or not to sell the kitten to this person. You have talked about conditions, and the price of the kitten. If you decide positively, you can ask for a down payment of about 20% of the price of the kitten. Remember to give a receipt! Then you should give the buyer specific information, preferably a package you have prepared earlier. Let me give you an example.
Example 1General information of cattery Siam
You have just obtained a kitten from cattery Siam. Of course we have already given you some information on how to treat a Siamese or Oriental Shorthair, or rather, on how they will treat you. Possibly there is more you would like to know. We are always available to answer your questions, advise you and where possible help with specific Siamese-cat issues.
First things first
An important subject in a cat's life is food. With too little food, or low quality food, your kitten will never grow into a big, beautiful cat. This kitten is used to all kinds of foods. Mainly wet food, since it is balanced and complete. Only feed the premium brands, such as Whiskas, Kittekat, Miauw, Brekkies, Gourmet or Felix. The cheaper brands are either not complete, or will simply be vomited back up.
The kitten is also used to dry food. It likes to eat Technical, Prins, Brekkies and Iams. These brands are available in pet stores. Although science is not in agreement on this one, we feel it necessary to mention anti-oxidants. Some cats react badly to them, for instance through skin problems and allergies. Up until now we have not have a problem. Dry food with BHA or BHT as anti-oxidant do not show this problem, since these are also fit for human consumption. Buy several brands, so that you can change around. It keeps it interesting for the kitten and easy for you, since it will continue to eat all kinds of food for the rest of its life. Fish, chicken or beef should only be given well cooked. As a rule you can give lamb heart once a week and whitefish once a week (beware of the bones!), or chicken. They love it mixed with boiled rice. Boil for a minimum of 8 minutes. Never feed pork! Additionally you can add some supplements, such as Irish Cal by Beaphar to the meat or fish.
Kittens should be fed several times a day. A young cat should be fed about 4 times a day until it is approximately 10 months old. Then you can slowly switch to twice a day. Our kittens are free feeding. Make sure there is fresh water available at all times. Move the water away from the food, and never place the litter-box close to the food or water. Milk should not be given because it can cause diarrhoea. A few bits of cheese or sausage are alright. Should the kitten get diarrhoea, and it is not ill, then fasting for a day is the best thing for it. If it hasn't gone then, you should take it to the vet.
Catsanal is good for coat and bones, but only give one a day. The kitten can have several seaweed treats.
Good luck, Cattery Siam
On the back of example 1, you could give the following information:The best way is to deliver the kitten to its new home. Often the new owners are pleased when you do that. If they do not want you to deliver the kitten, you should not sell to them, they are bound not to have good intentions. This way you make it easy for the new owner, and give them the opportunity to ask all these last minute questions about care and other issues. You will feel better, since you have been able to inspect the environment the kitten will live in, have been able to introduce it into its new home and show it the litter-box and drinking bowls. Playfully you can introduce the kitten to its new home. This way, the stress is much less. It will come back for attention from you, whilst slowly but surely it discovers the house. Other pets should be kept separated during this phase. They are allowed in after the kitten ahs processed the new information. Tired with excitement the kitten will come to take a quick nap on the breeder's new lap. This is a sign it feels at ease and now is the time to finally say goodbye to the kitten and relinquish responsibility to the new owner. The new owner should leave the kitten alone as much as possible. Give it space to discover the new environment and to find a safe place where it can hide in case it feels it needs to. Don't hunt the kitten, but let it come to you. Don't worry if it doesn't want to eat or drink straight away. This will come when it has settled in. Be calm, don't make any loud noises or turn the radio on loud, this can scare the kitten. Wait to touch the kitten until it comes to you. And when it does come to you, don't hold it when it wants to go. Speak in an assuring voice and try to take the stress away with toys. Introducing new pets should also be done carefully. Especially dogs are always over enthusiastic. They are not natural enemies, but there will be some miscommunication which could unnecessarily leas to a confrontation. Kittens usually have less trouble with other cats. Make sure the kitten has a warm place to sleep. Keep the house at 20 degrees Celsius. At home it had its littermates to keep it warm. I always advise to take the kitten to bed the first few nights. Take care that the kitten doesn't get into the washing machine, with all of its horrible consequences. You should also be careful with electrical wiring, open fires, pots with boiling water and open toilet bowls. Make sure your kitten can't escape through doors or window. Often we see that the kitten is used to its new home within a few days. I usually take at least a week before a bit of a bond begins to form. Sometimes it can take up to three weeks. But I can assure you that the energy you put in, and your patience, will be rewarded in many ways. Aftercare is the breeder's responsibility. The first days your contact with the new owner should be regular. This way you can guide the new owner and answer any questions that may come up.
Contracts.More and more it is becoming normal to sell kittens under certain conditions. In my opinion that is not bad at all. But, the contract should not put one party or another at a disadvantage, or limit their possibilities. Unreasonable demands in a contract will not stand up in court anyway. If you don't want a kitten to be used as a stud, or kittens from a cat should not be sold to certain people, then it has no use putting it in a contract. If people want to, they will do it anyway, and then you will have to go to court, and will probably lose. Apart from the court costs, this can become a very lengthy happening. And in the meantime the stud is siring kittens. Nonsense, therefore. People who don't want their kittens to be used for breeding or for studservice should sell them as adults and neutered, or should not breed or give studservice. Contract for the protection of the kittens are another thing. In these contracts such things as returning the kittens and under what conditions can be included, as well as refund, what applies when selling on to a third party, visitation rights, etc. I also feel a breeder should guarantee the product he sells. If there is a defect, it should be mentioned in the sales contract. In some cases a breeder can ask for a breeding restriction on the pedigree, if for instance the kitten has a serious defect. The new vaccination booklets the vet supplies nowadays have a standard health certificate. Since vets often don't know the specific problems with a breed, you as a breeder are honour bound to point them out to the vet, otherwise such a certificate is worthless and you are only fooling yourself. Breeders who have their kittens vaccinated at 8 and 11 weeks I would advise to have the health certificate endorsed on the second visit.
Example of a sales contract (Form with the breeder's address and logo)Sales contract Cattery Siam
Although we are dealing with a living being, and this contract may seem rather businesslike, S.I.A. Mese finds it in the interest of the kitten to enter into a sales contract with you. This kitten has been handed over to the best of my knowledge free of disease and/or defects to the new owner.
Name of the cat :
Breed of the cat:
Colour :
Sex :
Registration nr.:
Date of birth :
Price ¦
Conditions of guarantee apply to this cat.
Remarks:
The breeder reserves the right to:
Visit the kitten after a certain amount of time.
Rehome the kitten, after testing for FeLV & FIV, in his own or a third party's home if the kitten has been taken care of badly, or not at all, if it has been mistreated or abused, or if any situation has arisen which is not in the interest of the welfare of the kitten.
Purchase price of the kitten will be refunded after costs made by the breeder have been subtracted. Costs for tests are for the last registered owner.
Buyer declares:
Never to relinquish the above mentioned cat to a third party without written permission of the breeder, regardless of whether or not payment is made for the cat.
To refrain from any actions that will harm the welfare of the cat.
Date of sale on above mentioned cat:
Name of buyer :
Address of buyer :
PC&Town :
Telephone :
Signature buyer : Signature breeder :
Example of guarantee.
(Form with breeder's address and logo)
GuaranteeCattery Siam offers the best possible care in breeding and raising kittens. We breed with carefully selected lines which are judged on health and character. Our studs and queens are regularly checked and vaccinated by a vet. Your kitten has been vaccinated against Panleucopenia and Rhino/Calici. You should renew this vaccination annually. Your kitten has also been checked thoroughly by veterinary surgeon H. Pill in Cattown and has been declared healthy. In concordance with the new rules, the health certificate portion of the vaccination booklet has been duly signed and stamped. Your kitten has been dewormed with (brand name). We advise you to repeat this after three months. The worm tablets can be obtained from your vet and are safe for your kittens. To the best of our knowledge the kitten will be delivered to the new owner in excellent health.
Condition of guarantee1. Buyer may choose a new kitten without further payment if the kitten is to die within a week of purchase from any infectious disease contracted in cattery Siam.
2. Buyer may choose a new kitten without further payment if the kitten is to die within a year as a consequence of an inheritable disease.
If a kitten where to die of causes mentioned under 1 & 2, the breeder has the right to ask you to show a post mortem report by a vet or laboratory of the breeder's choosing. The costs of the post mortem will be paid by the breeder.
The breeder retains the right to deviate from these conditions in the case of gross negligence on the buyer's part.
Name of the cat :
Colour of the cat :
Sex of the cat :
Registration number:
Date of purchase :
The breeder
Of course everyone has their own way of dealing with potential buyers. But most literature on the subject is written from the buyer's point of view. The seller in this process is just as important. Some of you will wonder if all of this is necessary. In my opinion you have taken the responsibility of breeding a litter. This responsibility does not end when the kittens leave. Because of you these kittens are alive. It is therefore no more than reasonable that you should ensure that these lives can be led in the most pleasant and optimum conditions possible.
A final remark: Dam, you and your family have taken the responsibility and time to raise these kittens. This same responsibility and time can be demanded of the new owners; their new mothers!
Thanks to Corinne Judkins for the translation
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